Port Ellen ‘Maltings’ 21 yo 1973 / 1998 58.4%

One in a small pantheon of legends, remarkable also because of its vintage. Precise yet powerful, with an immensity that rises out of the glass as a colossus from the pits! Thus its makes itself immediately known. Beyond a doubt amongst the best of Port Ellen. Searing, phenolic and razor edged. Tar, hot leather, salty shellfish and meats on the sizzle of hot grills, coals in full red heat on white sand, and sage and camphor trees aflame. Unbelievable depth. Brine, seamud on rubber boots and buckets of ash but its just the vanguard of a swell of little phenolics. Huge punch and brutal power. 94 pts This brings to mind that one night at the Swan Song, the one time anyone ever had 1969s 62.2%, 63.1% and 64.7% head to head I think.