Mortlach 26 yo 1993 / 2019 The Whisky Trail by Elixir #85 56.2%

Big boned malt as expected, this one bearing its typical meatiness and that ‘non-sulphurous’ Mortlach sulphur buzzing away on the tongue, but its all precisely calibrated and here the added dimension of weight and mouthfeel really tells you this is a malt unlike any other. In truth, many things about Mortlach are unique, but we’ll not go there. So, vanilla sponge, cream and the joys of clean white oak are layered with big oily malt, grain sweetness, bone broth and meat cubes. This hint of umami next to the oaky sweetness is endearing. Fennel, sage and white pepper. Oily metal grills, soot crusted pots, coconut custard creme tarts, warm butter and wood ovens. Dense and grippy. This malt will stand against any cuisine, no matter how hearty, and win. 90 pts