Rémy Martin Centaure Extra circa 1980s 40% / Valdespino Oloroso 20 yo ‘Solera 1842’ 20%
Right double tasting. Cognac first, an old one too. What curious treasures one find in forgotten corners of old cabinets.
Right this is a Cognac, which means a twice distilled brandy whose source grapes are grown in certain areas around the town of Cognac, and aged for a minimum of two years in French Oak barrels. Of these controlled areas, Grand Champagne stands out as the most illustrious and with the best aging potential, followed by Petite Champagne and then the other AOC zones.
The big houses are familiar names, and Rémy Martin itself is known for blending cognacs sourced only from Grand Champagne and Petite Champagne. This particular bottling from the 80s is given the Extra designation, which means the cognac is aged a minimum of six years (like XO) but usually denotes something older.
Nose: Tannic and dry cedar wood. Smells grippy already. Tobacco leaves and menthol. Golden raisins and light glazed fruit – as opposed to dark preserved fruit, not cloyingly sweet. Walnut cream and bruleed sugar. Also enough of a deep intoxicating ginger and aniseed punch that reaches up into the back of the nose. Maybe a drop of pitch too.
Palette: Sweeter here. Smooth and with some rum agricole flavours like this fibrous vegetal sweetness. Mascerated berries and toffe with lots of that dry woodiness around.
Finish: Medium and drying, more tobacco and woody spiciness.
I don’t usually drink or even like cognacs because of the over concentrated raisiny sweetness I find in many but I really love this profile. It is sweet aromatically but not cloyingly sweet and is full of dry woody and spicy counterpoints. Reminds me somewhat of a good dry oloroso butt matured whisky.
But what of Oloroso then?
Valdespino is an old Sherry bodega, and the solera this oloroso was drawn from was started in 1842. Solera? 20 years old? Yes, in solera systems the given age is an average minimum, and not the youngest sherry in the bottle. Apparently this is a Oloroso Dulce, meaning that a small quantity of old Pedro Ximenez was blended in, though this is not mentioned anywhere in the label, but is still regarded as a dry sherry.
Nose: Ok very similar to a tawny port but drier by far. Meaning thick brown honey, the rancio of brown oxidised fruit, dark roasted nuts, dry leather. And interestingly, lots of traditional coconut candy and gula melaka. Aromatic and round.
Palette: Dry with just a touch of sweetness. Burnt caramel, more thick dark honey and rancio- luscious but dry. Old wood and licorice. Not as long or full on the tongue as say a sherried whisky.
Finish: A little more sweetness shows, more brown sugar candy.
Not sure if this scale should even apply to sherry, but alright. Shows great balance, leans heavily on the dry side but aromatically rich and interesting. Isn’t that whats great in a good oloroso matured whisky too?
Whiskyrific RSS
- Lagavulin 25 yo 200th Anniversary 51.7% ~2016 vs Lagavulin 30 yo 52.6% ~ 2006
- Craigellachie 31 yo Batch Batch 04-6137 52.2% vs Cragganmore 29 yo 1973 / 2003 Special Release 52.5%
- Convalmore 36 yo 1977 / 2013 Special Release 58% vs Convalmore 36 yo 1977 / 2013 Cadenhead 58.2%
- Littlemill 24 yo 1989 / 2013 The Whisky Agency and Acla 52.9% vs Lochside 27yo Single Grain James MacArthur’s Old Master 60.5%
- Springbank 10 yo 46% vs Springbank 26 yo 1992 / 2019 Whisky Kingdom #153b 47.7% vs Springbank 22 yo 1993 / 2015 The Bottlers #227 51.9%
- Imperial 1979 / 1991 Gordon & Macphail 40% vs Imperial 1991 / 2008 Gordon & Macphail 43%
- Pulteney 1971 The Piper’s Preferred by Scotchconnection 55.3% vs Old Pulteney 26 yo 1990 / 2017 Cadenhead 175th Anniversary 52.6%
- Clynelish 26 yo 1990 / 2016 Cadenhead 45.3% vs Highland Park 28 yo 1989 / 2018 Cadenhead 48.8%
- Linkwood 29 yo 1989 / 2019 SMWS 39.180 51% vs Linkwood 11 yo 2007 / 2019 SMWS 39.176 58%
- Strathisla 1967 / 2004 Duncan Taylor 45.9% vs Strathisla 1965 James MacArthur 51.7%
