Tomatin 12 yo 43% ~2013
At one time an absolute giant of an unknown with 23 stills, now somewhat lessened at a more sane 12 stills. Small distillery this is not. It is vast and grey, with a mostly featureless exterior that is entirely apt for the purpose of its malt. But it is also one of the very few distilleries that come with its own cooperage. That, and the still room is perhaps worth a look:
(photo credit – whiskyshopdufftown.com)
(photo credit – burburchan.com)
12 classic shaped potstills on the small side, but with a proportionately longish neck. But again long distillations and increased reflux courtesy of the boil balls help achieve the desired light spirit. Imagine 23 of these fired up all at once, making a lot of.. blending malt? What is blending malt exactly? Is it one designed to be able to mature fast and fill out a blend well, ie not be overly flavourful? And therefore less likely to blow you away with spirit led complexity after three decades in glass? Where are the legendary refill bourbon Tomatins from the 50s or 60s, if they exist. Or is such a thing by definition not possible?
Nose: The hit of sherry in the first whiff is clear and not token. In fact it smells like the beginning of a rich sherried malt – dark chocolate and plum jam plus a dose of oak – in fact suggestive of pedro ximenez. But the richness is rather thin in depth and you know this was a finish. So we get to look at Tomatin au naturel. It is a rather light whisky that’s not very malty, but bright with light fruity esters (pears, oranges) and uplifting spices (white pepper etc). What I don’t get is feints (Good!).
Palate: Sherry is there but merely as a suggestion. Instead quite a bit of estery fizzle wiht newish notes of varnish/nail polish and then some ribena. On the plus sude, it’s a light whisky you don’t need to feel bad for not taking seriously.
Finish: Short-ish, clean white heat, maybe some pepper. Bit of malt here too.
Why do these young and finished whiskies smell better than they taste? Not that it was a bad whisky, but the finishing could have been longer.
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