Benromach 10yo 100 proof vs 21yo vs 35yo
Funny how some distilleries have always been owned by the same owner, and others seem to live the cycle of death and rebirth. Benromach is one such resuscitated distillery that isn’t only just hanging on anymore, it’s well and truly on its feet.
Diageo acquired Benromach sometime in the early 50s and hence you will find it here and there and also in the old Rare Malts bottlings range as well. It continued production up until 1983 when hard times forced Diageo to close many of their distilleries, and then it was silent until 1992 when Gordon & Macphail purchased it. This is quite a unique move as independent bottlers don’t usually have their own distilleries – their business being buying casks and issuing them under their house label when mature. But this is no longer the case nowadays and many bottlers are either closely associated with, or outright own their own distilleries.
G&M took 6 years to ready the distillery, such a dilapidated condition it was in that virtually all the distillation equipment had to be replaced, but fortunately the sale included aging stock which is essential for cash flow of course. Production finally started up in 1998, in now what should properly be considered a new distillery distinct from the one that closed in 1983. Nonetheless I have nothing but admiration for G&M whose official mission for Benromach is to bring back a 1960s style of Speysider. Quite honestly, if you are like me and have tried and tire of the very similar modern flash sherry-fied NAS, 10year, 12 year old Speysiders being marketed as the next best thing, G&M’s mission brings a tear to the eye.
Some old school practices G&M uses? Brewer’s yeast, and long 3+ days fermentation. ‘Stills that are similar but smaller than the original.’ – From the horse’s mouth, but that really tells you nothing. Anyway, regular Benromach comes slightly peated at 10ppm, which may account for some of the more phenolic scents in the 10year 100proof below. But wait don’t take that as official, can’t be definitive about that.
Benromach 21yo 43%
These 21 year olds were issued a couple of years back, but even if you do the math there’s no way this is really 21 years. Benromach closed in 1983, even assuming this was vatted from the last year of production, that means this spirit is really maybe late 20s.
Nose: Before getting into it. Excellent blending. Very round with enough softness but also enough character to be intriguing. On one hand there’s a big dollop of these sweet soft dark fruit, and raisins and all that, but also the aching tang of raw green stonefruit. Then a mix of wood wax, lamp oil, greased tins, burnt ham. I did say ‘character’. All the while a big but never blocky sweet old oakiness and soft rolling spices mash about. Like the lushest Speysider blended with an old Highlander. Not much development after but very good as it is.
Palate: Yes old school notes of greased paper, minerals and damp black earth. Cooking pans. Lamp oil and soot, a bit gristly. But also a lot of these friendlier rich wood and sherry notes expected from the nose. Nice round blend. I would say it is a tad weak and somewhat transient on the tongue, as the finish comes too quickly.
Finish: Medium, somewhat tart and sappy. Raw green mango.
This is quite honestly really good whisky. Nice blend of old style and sweet elements. I say buy it if you see it around.
Benromach 35yo 43%
This one checks out. It is distillate from 1980/81. Stunning presentation if I might say so.
Nose: Yes. Deep resinous and full bodied. Huge aromatic old oakiness, and a big sweet but dry sherry influence in its most welcoming form – licorice, cocoa, dry dark fruit. Also lots and lots of wood polish, rubbing wax, furniture oil, all rubbed into some split and cracking old dry wood. Some earthiness, some bark. Its a mature and complex nose for sure, but peeks of some green freshness does come through here and there. Fantastic.
Palate: Wow that’s quite a big hit of woodiness. Tannic woodiness, so much so she richer sherry is overpowered for a bit while the whole palate revels in these wood based flavours. Bitter medicinal herbs, musty cupboards, and the like. Too much of some bark based health drink without the good intentions. Again tad weak and short here, straight to the finish. A bit tired and woody I’m afraid.
Finish: Medium long, but woody, herby and tannic.
The nose was superb but the palate really weak and way too woody for my liking. But I am very sensitive to wood tannins so maybe others find this excellent?
Benromach 10 yo 100proof ~2014
Bam. 57%. This stuff is distilled and matured after Gordon & Macphail’s take over, which ordinarily means a different style. Might that be a good thing?
Nose: Well it’s young, kinda brash and not to be trifled with, but already has menthol and tobacco and a developing woodiness. Lots of Vicks, also very piney. Old books and suede leather. Some cake some sweet glazed topping.
Palate: Sweet tobacco, kinda hot too but that can’t be helped. Pine and juniper and .. I have heard this one described as firewood smokey, but there is really something here like a wood fired oven in an expensive pizza restaurant. Malt old leather old books, pleasingly musty! Chest rub. Quite powerful though.
Finish: Actually rather long, but also quite hot, pinewood and polish and old leather.
One of the best 10 year olds around. I can’t wait to see this at 21. Much respect to G&M for succeeding in putting genuine character into this whisky.
Whiskyrific RSS
- Millburn 36 yo 1969 / 2005 Douglas Laing #DL2152 50% vs Glenburgie 40 yo 1963 / 2003 Signatory #4751 56.4%
- Ben Nevis 23 yo 1996 / 2019 Single Malts of Scotland for the Nectar #536 51.3% vs A Speyside Distillery 32 yo 1989 / 2022 Thompson Bros 51.4%
- Brora 22 yo 1972 / 1995 Rare Malts 61.1% vs Brora 22 yo 1972 / 1995 Rare Malts 58.7%
- Talimburg 19 yo 1986 / 2005 The Whisky Fair #1485 45.9% vs Talisker 20 yo 1981 / 2002 62%
- Caol Ila 12 yo Bulloch Lade for Zenith 43% vs Caol Ila 30 yo 1979 / 2010 Berry Bros #4604/5 55.6%
- Clynelish 29 yo 1965 Whyte & Whyte 52.1%
- Brora 21 yo 1982 / 2003 Signatory #416 58.4% vs Clynelish 27 yo 1982 / 2009 Synch Eli Daily Dram 46%
- Dornoch 5 yo 2017 / 2023 #46 ‘Jasper Broers’ 57.9% vs Shizuoka ‘private cask’ 2017 / 2022 #2017-108 61%
- Clynelish 26 yo 1993 / 2020 Carn Mor #11215 52.7% vs Bowmore 17 yo 2004 /2021 SMWS 3.327 ‘Siren’s Song’ 57.1%
- Talisker 25 yo ‘Bottle TA25 3987’ 45.8% ~ bottle code L0296CM004 bottled 2020 vs Ledaig 11 yo 2008 / 2019 The Swan Song & 1BRD #700104 58.7%
whiskyrific 