Abhainn Dearg 46% vs Aultmore 15 yo 1997 Master of Malt 55.8%
Abhainn Dearg 46%
This is a brand new distillery on the Isle of Lewis, founded in 2008, and it is the first distillery in the Outer Hebrides in almost 200 years. According to the good people of Abhainn Dearg it may well be the first legal distillery there as well. Abhainn Dearg now takes the title of most westerly distillery in Scotland, which is likely to go uncontested as the sheer remoteness of the location is a challenge in itself.
This is from a miniature from 2014, no age statement, but clearly young malt, as despite the contribution of the american oak – this spirity vanilla and oak shavings- the whisky itself remains rather raw and spiriteous. There are some buttery notes and the shape of some minerals are beginning to form, but lots of feints and some mildew like off notes. This whisky wants to sleep and we really ought to check back in 10 years. Nonetheless we see what lies ahead, this feels and tastes like a classic highlands style malt more akin to Glenmorangie than Balvenie. Note the score below is for what must be a 3-5 year old whisky and few malts shine at this age..
Aultmore 15 yo 1997 Master of Malt 55.8%
Here we are in grassy territories, with big overtones of fresh fruitiness like apple peel, pineapple, mandarins and kiwis. It is remarkable how fruitiness and grassiness are so closely found eg Littlemill, Bruichladdich and some Benriach. This one continues with the sizzle of hot sand or hot concrete even, drying laundry and some green sap. On the tongue a medium weight whisky with a big ginger kick too and some olive oil, but the grass and fruitiness are in attendance. WYSIWYG. Fairly simple and straightforward, though it leaves a protracted banana note on the finish.
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