Mortlach 35 yo 1936 Gordon & Macphail Pinerolo for Edwards and Edwards 43% vs Macallan-Glenlivet 15 yo Pure Malt Gordon and Macphail Gold Label 80 proof
The Malt Affair Vol. 4 is over and there were some true gems to be had in the line up, like this stunning old Mortlach, fielded by first time exhibitors La Maison du Whisky Singapore.
Mortlach 35 yo 1936 Gordon & Macphail Pinerolo for Edwards and Edwards 43%
Despite the decades in glass and the low abv, this Mortlach emerges unscathed and vibrant. That alone is a marvel. Another remarkable observation is the style of this Mortlach seems to have carried through to the later 60s and 70s. Kudos to old hands and customs. So, this is a beautifully composed old whisky with perfect integration of round richness, deep earthiness and a grizzly growl reminiscent of sulphur without being sulphurous. On the tongue in particular, it’s a meaty bite that anchors what might have been a flaccid old malt but is instead revealed as a Shakespearean soliloquy, centre stage with gravitas. And despite the low abv, so much is said: old resins, rustic Armagnac, old earthen pots from out in the garden, sooty tools, iberico, long aged balsamic, cold poached fruit, hints of suede, tobacco and so much more.
Macallan-Glenlivet 15 yo Pure Malt Gordon and Macphail Gold Label 80 proof ~ circa mid 70s bottling
Unfortunately a step down from the Mortlach. We’ve got genuine old sherry maturation going on but it simply does not have the same verve nor multi-facted depth. Still, good things are happening here: A good nose presenting oily roasted nuts, dried apricots, tobacco, cocoa cans and sweet-dry preserved things. Also a dry green herbal edge like dried pine needles. On the palate a real sooty aspect shows up, and medicinal touches like eucalyptus, camphor, and a bit of tar. A smear of black jam. Hot grills before cooking. The earthiness grows on the palate and herbal edge continues to the finish. A solid old Macallan.
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