Clynelish, 1995/2010 Samaroli ‘Glen Cawdor’ cask 1469, 45%
Samaroli is an Italian independent bottler, just like Cadenhead or Signatory in the UK. ‘Italian?’ You say, ‘What do Italians have to do with bottling Scotch whisky?’ In fact there is a long history of Italian independent bottlers being highly regarded, names such as Sestante and Moon Import have bottled whiskies that are considered legendary today. The bottom line is the Italians have been collecting and drinking fine Single Malts for decades before the rest of the world caught on, and that is why many great old bottles sourced today were first put away by a prudent fellow in Italy.
But times change of course, and Mr. Silvano Samaroli sold his company, though he is said to still be very involved in cask selection. This label ‘Glen Cawdor’ has an old provenance, being used in the 70s onwards, but now reused for their series of 50cl bottles. This one for instance, has a 1995 Clynelish inside, and I have to say this is a bona fide winner.
Nose: Big bed of soft but indistinct fruitiness like a fruit salad, lacquered wood and vanilla creme, but very quickly turning full highlands with flint and chalk and touches of oiliness. Very reminiscent of a full bodied white wine. bruised pears, something salted and preserved. Surprisingly complex at 15 years. Bravo!
Palate: Complex with a sharp mineral side, matched with quite some warm salted butter, plus a drop of medicine and sour lemon in the mix. Not a hint of wood technology, I say modern old school.
Finish: Long, salted herb infused olive oil.
This Clynelish shows without reservation, why Clynelish is so well regarded today. Find a good cask and you will be treated to something both new and old. Also still available at LMdW Singapore last I checked.
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