Nanyang Peninsula Collection: Orkney Single Malt 22 yo 1999 / 2022 Nanyang Whisky 52.6% vs Ben Nevis 23 yo 1998 / 2022 Nanyang Whisky 54.1% Islay Single Malt 30 yo 1990 / 2022 51.3%
Orkney Single Malt 22 yo 1999 / 2022 Nanyang Whisky 52.6%
Quite a dominant malty-cereal chord despite the advanced wood. It smells like hulled grains and toasted oatcakes with plenty of caramel and leathery touches keeping apace. This one changes rapidly in the glass and soon the spirit’s voice emerges with saline, graphite oil, hot sand, thin smoke and gallons of medicated oil, plus a comely mix of aromatic resins and ambroxan. Until the tongue that is, which arrives with a spectacularly intense heat. Its profile narrows now with saltwater, lots of hot menthol, caramel and heavy wood tannins. Some olive oil as well. and resins again. This one is all somersaults and sleight of hand. 88 pts
Ben Nevis 23 yo 1998 / 2022 Nanyang Whisky 54.1%
Again the ex bourbon wood is loud here, but this time with honey and cream, stewed yellow fruit and syrup. Very delectable. Aniseed and cardamom in little pine boxes. Now the seared sparkle of Ben Nevis ‘sulphur’ is there, but ballasted by the wood and its sweetness. Still, kitchen aromas of burnt saucepans, dried herbs and meat undergoing the maillard reaction waft about deliciously. Melting butter, black peppercorns, toasted bread, juniper and pine needles. Ben Nevis is an undoubtedly muscular make, and all these elements are held together tightly to the benefit of the whole. 89 pts but those who especially love this style will give it a 91.
Islay Single Malt 30 yo 1990 / 2022 51.3%
Clearly in old peater territory now. Thin but sharp wisps of smoke over sackcloth covered earthen floors and hot clay ovens, coal fired. A buttery salty fish pie in the distance, baked and burnt apples on a smoked in carpet, and the last embers purring in a bed of ash. Over these, certain saline aspects remain prominent, especially the salt tang, seaweed, chest rub and dried lemon rind. That said, words alone cannot convey the textural sensation of these otherwise loud flavours having been ‘rubbed into the grain’ by years of maturation – The whole is a polished nugget devoid of edges and clear definitions, but radiant and self assured as any Islay at any age. Fits the profile of a cleaner Laphroaig of the early 90s well. 91 pts
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